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Pick the Right Dog
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How do I pick a good
dog? |
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This is
the unabridged article written for the South Australian Stock Journal.
This article was
printed in an abbreviated form in the Rural Products and Services
Directory 2009. |
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People
often ask me what they should look for in a good working
dog.
It's the
question I most often get asked. Sometimes it's put the other way round in
typical farmer fashion such as, "What do you look for in a good dog?".
So, let's presume that you would want to choose a class act. A very good dog
... after all, who would deliberately set out to choose a second rate
worker to help you for about 10 years? Unfortunately not everyone spends
the time doing their homework. So let's look at what you should
know.
Benefits
Stock
handled by good dogs "do" much better, carry better condition, grow out
better wool, they are less stressed, don't run into and out of watering
points, move through yards and sheds much easier without hammering
themselves against rails or gates and are much calmer on the boards for
shearers. Additionally, good stock handlers walk less distances and don't
put themselves into OH&S situations where they are riding motorbikes
at speed, walking through mobs in yards, manually lifting sheep or pushing
cattle and therefore lessen their chances of injury. The bottom line is
better prices, less stress, less injuries, saving time and happy shearers.
All round, it is a win/win situation.
And this is multiplied remarkably
when we look at marginal land and/or harsh conditions.
A good dog
should be well looked after (like any other valuable member of the
workforce) and should be with you for up to 10 years. Very conservative
figures suggest that over a 10 year period a good dog will save you approx
$300,000.00 in today's figures.
Background
It is not
generally known, but bitches have multiple embryos. Therefore, they can
also have multiple sires if the breeding is not conducted under controlled
conditions. So, in the case of an accidental mating, the sires may be the
Collie cross next door, the Labrador from nearby and the Staffordshire
from down the road. Those types of matings cannot guarantee who the sires
were. Dogs will travel considerable distances
at night |
to visit a bitch on heat (and vice versa).
Even if
someone took great care to ensure that there was only one sire, most
people in the "home" or "on farm" situation do not have any method of
ensuring that there is no close relationship between the dogs, and they
may be practicing line breeding or inbreeding without being aware
that they are doing so. The resulting inherited problems are catastrophic
for the dog. Not to mention emotionally disturbing for the family,
especially children.
Increasing your
chances.
You can
increase your chances of choosing a quality dog by being aware of some
facts. Treat with caution advertisements that are "giving away" dogs, dogs
that come from "good working stock" and dogs that are "low in price". It
goes without saying that any dog that is a "give away" has no value. Dogs
that come from "good working stock" have no guarantee of the sire/s or
in-breeding and low-priced dogs just don't cut it anymore. It costs approx
$70.00 for the first vet visit to get a C5 immunisation and then the
booster is around $55.00. So far the total is $125.00 and that doesn't
factor in the worming at 2 weeks, 4 weeks, 6 weeks and 8 weeks - the
calcium supplements, worming and correct diet for the bitch - and the
proper puppy food to just get the pup to the ripe old age of 8
weeks.
Needs
Analysis
Like
anything you are about to obtain it is essential that you work out just
what you need to have and what is not quite so important. Unconsciously we
do it all the time on the farm. Do we need 4WD? How much horsepower. How
wide? How heavy? Where can it be kept? And I can go on. Choosing a quality
dog is no different.
1. What are your work requirements of a dog?
Paddock? Yard?
Utility?
2. What type of stock. Cattle? Sheep? Goats?
Dairy? Etc.
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3. How do the stock handle? Are they quiet,
flighty,...
4. What is the terrain like ... hills, scrub,
flat paddock,
etc.
5. How many do you work in a
mob?
6. Is most of your stock work done by
yourself?
7. Do you draft by yourself... or would like
to.
8. What breed of dog do you prefer? Kelpie?
Border Collie? And
why?
9. Have you got a proper run or "off the ground kennels" to house your dog, with a continuous supply of water
and safe from snakes and other danger?
OK,
worked out that stuff- now where do I find my dog?
Here's a
short list and by no means does it contain
everything.
Look
for:
A
registered stud breeder of "Working Dogs"
2. Be sure that the breeder can supply a
pedigree that goes back about 10
generations. Nowadays,
pedigrees from reputable studs are computer generated and contain the
ancestors registered numbers and
in-breeding coefficient calculations.
3. Any previous customers who can give
independent referrals about the breeder and their
dogs?
4. A guarantee that if the pup will
not work by age 12 months and, you have given it every opportunity to do so, the pup will be
replaced or your money
refunded.
5. The stud can demonstrate one or both
parents actually
working.
6. The pup comes from a background of
Intelligence, Trainability,
Temperament, Working instinct, Eye and Cover.
7. Pay particular attention to the
mother. Generally, that's where most of the traits come from.
8. Are the Sire and Dam calm on stock? You
don't want a dog that races
around out of control and
barks a lot. In other words you need a dog that works stock... not "dogs"
stock.
9. Take your time. You are looking
for a dog that has the
"science" bred into it - this is a decision about a 'mate' that will give you
years of
service. |
10. Don't hesitate to ask the stud master any
questions you may have. It is in
the stud's best interests to
supply you with a top quality dog. After all, their reputation is made on
the dogs they
breed.
11. And last but definitely not least. Make
sure you like the little one...
you're going to have him for
awhile.
Got my Dog - What
now?
Those
people who start with a dog bred with the "science"... strong working
instinct, intelligence, good temperament, eye and cover, and then give it
the right training, will be rewarded with a mate who can do the work of
several men ... and give you the freedom to be able to work stock without
having to rely on other people.
So by
starting with the best bred dog you can afford you will likely save
yourself a great deal. Consider it an investment,
Unfortunately, working
dogs don't come with a manual and, as yet, no one has written "Working Dog
Training for Dummies". It's a good idea to invest in yourself and get some
training. Just owning stock and dogs doesn't give you the skills and
knowledge to make the job easier.... It's often the handler, not the dog
that needs the training.
If you are
buying a "started" or "trained" dog, it's also important to attend some
training if you haven't already done so. Otherwise you could be spending
many thousands of dollars and potentially ruining your investment by not
knowing how to actually work the dog and get the best out of
him.
It is
extremely common for farmers and stock owners who have had dogs and stock
around them all their lives, to struggle with their stock handling. I meet
them all the time. The skills for handling stock and dogs well... must be
learned ... they don't come from just owning a dog or copying someone
else. Once having attended a training course they find how simple it can
be when they have control of the situation. No more frustration or
swearing! As an example. Many people made the most basic mistake of
allowing a young dog to be trained by an older dog. It's an absolute No,
No. Think about it.
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Who is the
leader here? Who gives the orders and signs the cheque? The older dog - or
you?
If you
start with a pup it will take you about 2 years to fully train your dog
and yes, you can ruin the dog by teaching the wrong skills at the wrong
time and trying to train far too early or for too long. In other words you
can very easily, "Take the dog out of the dog"
So think
about your investment... A Working Dog Training Course will give you a
sequence of what to train first then next etc. Additionally, the course
will very quickly highlight if you have made a mistake in your choice of a
dog. Then you can make a decision and get a different or better one before
you spend 2 years trying to train the wrong dog.
How much
is a good dog worth?
Generally a
good pup is between about $500 and $800; started dogs between $800 and
$1500 |
depending
on their age and ability, and fully trained dogs have sold in Australia
for over $7,000. If you have a certain type of dog you would love to own -
consider putting an order in for it. You may have to wait, but it could be
worth your while.
Your dog
investment is relatively cheap when you consider how much it would cost to
pay for labour (if you could get it) damage to vehicles, the number of
years service your dog will give you, the work ethic of the dog. Always
willing to work, with no overheads. All they ask for is a kind hand, a
safe place, worming, immunisation and a feed at night.
Most people
would pay far in excess of this for a vehicle, but when you have a good,
well-trained dog, sometimes the best place for the vehicle is back in the
shed.
Choose
carefully. Choose wisely. Respect these wonderful workers. This is
probably one of the best investments you'll make. |
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Written By Ben Page
Pages Working Dog Centre
Breeder of Working Kelpies and Working Border Collies. Trainer of Working Dog Handlers. Trainer of Working Dogs. |
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